Gion Okada

The menu easily runs to over a hundred items. As if to cover every aspect of the season, names of ingredients from mountain and sea tumble across the page. The kitchen buzzes with activity, the chef and his apprentices working in sync to prepare their creations. If watching the interplay appeals to you, sit at the counter for a front-row seat. Hamo sashimi may be parboiled or skin-seared; for soup, the chef offers creations tailored for each diner. Somen noodle soup is prepared with various types of dashi, each crafted from a single ingredient such as tilefish or clam.